During my preteens, I lived in Cardiff-by-the-Sea. On some Sundays, my family and I would walk to the local grocery store, Seaside Market, where they sold “Cardiff Crack” in a tent outside. I remember the wafting smell of smoky tri-tip preceded me as I watched people line up for lunch.
When I saw the business known as Crack Taco Shop in Coronado, it didn’t cross my mind that a North County specialty would intersect with an island down south. Still, I investigated with my taste buds and went in for some street tacos. Lo and behold, the owners are the Abbo family, an extension of the Najir family, the owners of Seaside Market. And Crack Tacos uses the same Cardiff Crack in their tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and layered on top of fries. I got to talk a bit with one of the daughters, Alexis Abbo, about the menu.
The taqueria fits the bill of a classic taco shop — ultra-casual, an open patio, paper plates and salsa in plastic containers — but like most Coronado restaurants, it knows its audience, elevating the experience with an upscale flair. Glossy green ceramic tiling and intricate murals of DÃa de los Muertos skeletons cover the walls, the outside seating faces the golden light during late afternoon.
The hours are unique for a sleepy beach town, however, because unlike most places that close at 9 or 10 p.m, its operating hours are 8 a.m. until 2 a.m. in case locals want a midnight snack.
As I enjoyed the golden hour, I watched people trickle in and eventually fill the space. I received my tacos at record speed. They came with green and red salsas, which I dumped over my order, maybe a little unhinged.
First was a bite of the al pastor taco, and I was already sold. The corn tortilla was one of the best I have ever had. According to the owner, Abbo, the masa is freshly rolled and cooked before being served and it’s apparent. Instead of being dry and easily breakable, the tortilla was thick and malleable, holding all the elements. The chili-marinated al pastor is one of my favorites for its crispy edges and sweet and savory depth from a long ritual of infusing spices into the pork; this one hit the nail on the head. The guacamole was fresh, and the raw onions provided a crunch, but the slight sprinkle of cilantro was a bit skimpy. In fact, one might feel the portion size is a bit restrained, but it is such a flavor-packed bite that you don’t notice in the moment.
On to the tri-tip, which took me back to my Cardiff days. The meat was juicy and tender, melting in your mouth just like I remembered. Abbo said they only use beef tallow and extra-virgin olive oil instead of seed oils, which must be one of the keys to the juicy meat. This portion was much more generous, featuring a heavier scoop of guacamole, crunchy diced onions, and another sprinkle of cilantro. I squeezed one of the many limes to add a zip of citrus, relieved to find they were ripe and generous with juice.Â
And lastly, the Baja shrimp. It was filled with raw purple and green cabbage, pico de gallo, spicy shrimp, and a drizzle of creamy chipotle sauce. It was all bedded on a soft flour tortilla — the flour large enough to hold the voluminous cabbage and large plump shrimp. The shrimp added a kick, coated in a smoky spice, perhaps cayenne or chipotle. The creamy chipotle sauce drizzled on top tamed the peppery crunch of the cabbage and all together was a juicy and crunchy bite. I nibbled it all away into nothingness and washed it down with a candy-like guava Jarritos.
Crack Taco Shop in Coronado is located at 1009 Orange Ave., Coronado, CA 92118. They are open every day, from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m.
