If I haven’t already proven myself to be a dedicated food writer, (please see: last week’s column where I chipped my tooth while reviewing Clayton’s Coffee Shop) this might take the cake. Or pie? This week I, in all my lactose intolerance, checked out none other than Village Pizzeria.
I walked in and made eye contact with the giant framed Al Capone picture on the wall. He sat above black vinyl booths, tufted with buttons. The ceiling was flanked with surfboards and ABC Nightline played on the TV. Based on the atmosphere alone, the restaurant seemed to understand its role as a pizza joint in Southern California.
The menu is what you would expect, with pizza by the slice, by the pie, garlic knots, wings, salads, etc.
I ordered garlic knots, a slice of the thick Sicilian pizza named Godfather (fitting), which featured roasted sweet onion, roasted sweet pepper and fresh mozzarella and a slice of the Hawaiian pizza. It was delightfully affordable coming in at under $15. I received my meal neatly packaged in a to-go container, slice stacked on slice between layers of brown paper.
I watched The Godfather for the first time when I was 15, then again at 17 and most recently at 23. With every viewing I gained a new perspective and deeper understanding of Coppola’s vision. Much like the movie, the Godfather pizza slice revealed new layers with each bite. The crust, delightfully thick, was cooked perfectly to avoid an under done and doughy center. The cheese bled down the sides of the slice, and held the roasted sweet peppers and onions steady. This was a slice to die for.
I took it to the expansive outdoor seating area, not wanting to wait any longer to begin my feast. The Hawaiian slice was exactly what it claimed to be, a no frills reliable slice. The Godfather was equally enjoyable, the sweet peppers on the square slice added a little kick and the dough was delicious and spongy. However, I wasn’t blown away by the garlic rolls; they were starchy and dense, with less garlic than I would have liked.
I sat outside in the late afternoon sun enjoying my slices and chewing Lactaid after Lactaid. All in all, the pizza was worth any cheese-related discomfort. Ultimately I received a yummy, unfussy and wildly cost effective meal, which is a hard thing to come by these days.
Village Pizzeria is located on Orange Avenue and is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
