In honor of the old Irish patron, St. Patrick, I went to McP’s Irish Pub in Coronado for this week’s review. Ireland’s culture has always been whimsical to me: a land of writers, cliffside seascapes, rolling hills and witty storytellers. Oh, and Guinness (unfortunately something I cannot drink more than a sip of).
When I walked into McP’s Irish Pub for an early dinner the night before St. Patrick’s Day, it felt, yes, dark and dingy, but also storied. After all, it’s been open since 1982. Inside, a crowded bar greets you immediately, packed not just with people but with rows of thick glass beer bottles hanging above a seasoned bartender in the dimly lit room. Military badges line the walls, and decades of history seem embedded in every countertop. The stone walls pull you into a capsule of Irishness, and the sticky counters made me feel as if I was no longer in the ritzy Coronado I knew.
Still, a heat wave in Southern California drew everyone outside to the spacious patio for sunset, with string lights and Irish Guinness flags strung from one side to the other. Dark, layered beers were dispersed among groups of what I assumed were military men. Dogs sat underneath tables to get out of the heat. No one looked foreign to the place; one guy even came up to our server and gave her a hug.
The menu is a hodgepodge of Irish and American fare, with even a few Mexican touches: fish and chips, bangers and mash, corned beef tacos and a McPhilly cheesesteak. I ordered the fried pickles as an appetizer, the server’s recommendation, and the Ol’ Dubliner burger, a take on the classic deli Reuben.
The few servers, looking stressed, were practically running from table to table serving parties of 10 or even 15. Despite the frazzle, my dishes came out quickly. The pickles were exactly what you’d hope for: briny in the middle and crunchy on the outside and sprinkled with some parmesan cheese. Dunked into ranch dressing, it was hard to imagine a better pairing. They weren’t curated to perfection, but it was a pub after all, and the salt on a hot day was satisfying. Maybe I felt out of place eating pub food on a Tuesday, but the ultra casualness inspired a laziness inside me, and I watched as others sipped and enjoyed the sunset.
The burger featured a half-pound patty topped with Swiss cheese, pickles, corned beef, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing, with tomato and lettuce on a brioche bun, all held together by a knife stabbed through the middle. The corned beef added a salty, delicate texture alongside the thick hamburger patty. The sauerkraut brought a tangy crunch and a fresh acidity that complemented the meat, while the sweet Thousand Island dressing added a note of nostalgia. The brioche bun softly held it all together.
Even though McP’s is just a sliver of Emerald Isle taste, I was reminded that much of America’s roots are actually Irish, and it is yet another culture that makes up the America we know today.
