I have always been something of a minimalist. I don’t keep trinkets, I can fit all my clothes into one suitcase, and I have one small box of memories for my entire life. I’m drawn to a less-is-more mentality.
That restraint doesn’t always apply to food, however. One of my favorites is pad thai, layered with lemongrass and the complexities of sweet and sour spice. But I also love when ingredients can speak for themselves. Sushi is one of those, leading me to shy away from excessive frills — crunches, heavy sauces and embellishments that overshadow the fish and the rice.
Still, knowing this kind of extravagance appeals to many sushi lovers in the West, I stepped outside my comfort zone at Yummy Sushi, where the menu runs from straightforward nigiri to fully loaded rolls.
When I walked inside after climbing a set of fluorescent-lit stairs, there was already a line as early as 6 p.m. on a Tuesday. Inside, a sushi counter sat to the left, and on the right, a football game played on a big screen. String lights brimmed the interior, warming the space and giving it a cozy feel.
Once seated, I noticed that while the Hotel del Coronado’s winter wonderland was in full effect across the street, there were no windows facing that direction. Instead, the windows from my table looked out onto a dark neighborhood street.
When a young server approached wearing shorts and a white tank top, her backdrop of Christmas stockings further grounded me in the fact that I was, indeed, in a Coronado winter.
The server quickly asked for my order, putting me into a mild panic. I got the sense she wanted me out of her hair. When I asked for guidance on the menu, her response was brief and offered little beyond what I had already read. I tried to press for more insight but stopped when her annoyance became apparent. A few negative Yelp reviews I had seen mentioned poor service, and I was disappointed to find that criticism rang true.
Looking at the menu, I briefly considered the all-you-can-eat option for $45, which ultimately would have been cheaper than my three plates. I ended up naively ordering salmon belly nigiri — my favorite — along with two rolls: the Hotel Del Coronado roll and the Long Weekend roll.
The salmon belly arrived quickly. It lay there with marbled white signaling it was indeed the belly. As I swallowed it in one succinct bite, I was pleased by the buttery texture. The rice, however, felt slightly stiff, lacking the soft fluff that complements the richness of the fish, but I don’t think a casual sushi eater would notice. I’m just a sucker for fluffy rice.
For the main course, I ordered a couple of over-the-top rolls, inspired by the plates on my neighbors table and the server’s recommendation. When the rolls arrived, they were nicely presented, and the fish looked enticing. I reached immediately for the Long Weekend roll, which features spicy tuna, cucumber, avocado and shrimp tempura inside, topped with seared salmon, spicy mayo, eel sauce, green onions and crispy onions. It was a mouthful — literally.
The first bite delivered the richness of lightly cooked salmon. The sear gave the fish a depth that felt both fresh and decadent. The eel sauce added sweetness, while the spicy mayo brought a touch of creaminess. Green onions and crispy onions provided a mix of fresh snap and fried crunch. Plump shrimp tempura introduced another layer, and the spicy tuna added a kick that made my lips sting. Everything came together seamlessly.
The final roll was my least favorite, though I can’t say the server didn’t warn me. I should have taken the hint that it wasn’t a go-to choice. The Hotel Del Coronado roll — which, based on the name, I assumed would be the star — features real crab and avocado inside, topped with bluefin tuna, house-made soy sauce, yangpa (pickled onion) and black pepper.
That simplicity, however, did not equal power. The roll ended up being too crab-forward. Minced crab, whether imitation or real, needs a counterbalance. That texture called for crunch or fat — something to offset its disconcertingly mushy quality. But the crab filled roll reminded me of taking a bite of tuna salad.
The bluefin tuna on top was fresh and easily the best component, but it was topped with pickled onions that missed the mark. Instead of tasting bright and tangy, they carried a dull, roasty flavor that suggested they were over-pickled or out of a jar.
Overall, the most important test for any sushi restaurant is the quality of the fish, and Yummy Sushi passed. For a more traditional sushi experience, Saiko Sushi remains my first choice for the reasons my predecessor, Lilly Corcoran, noted in her review, but Yummy Sushi is not far behind.
Yummy Sushi is open Monday to Friday from 2 p.m. to 9:30 p.m and Saturday and Sunday 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. located on 1330 Orange Ave, Coronado.
