This week, a reader suggested that the Fork First columnist pay a visit to Saiko Sushi Restaurant, where she has been eating weekly for 10 years. What a gem! I can’t think of anything I’ve done weekly for 10 years apart from (maybe?) working out.
A lover of sushi, I happily marched over to Saiko Sushi to get my fix. I am clearly the last person to get the memo. I visited on a weeknight as a party of one, and had to wait for a table to open up.
When Chef Anthony Pascale opened Saiko Sushi 15 years ago he wanted to offer a high caliber of food, hence the name, which is Japanese for “the best.”
Pascale has a high reverence for his craft – this translates directly to his fish case. Everything in his fish case is from the San Diego area, with exception to salmon, as it is not native to the area. The salmon come from New Zealand, but don’t worry, Pascale flew out to meet with the fisherman to ensure everything was up to his standards.
This appreciation is also reflected in the sake menu. Pascale became a sake sommelier in Japan and only stocks small-batch sake.
“Nothing corporate, nothing mass produced,” he adds.
The reader said that there are always exciting options on the restaurant’s specials menu. I was drawn to the new-style rolls; there were combinations I hadn’t heard of before. For example, one sushi roll featured both goat cheese and macadamia nuts. Feeling too hungry for a culinary exploration into cheese sushi, I ordered seaweed salad, Saiko miso and the crown roll.
Pascale says the sizable specials board is a cornerstone of the restaurant, adding that he hires good chefs and urges them to play with exciting new combinations. He believes this frequent rotation and innovation helps keep repeat customers.
The crown roll featured spicy tuna, tempura shrimp, kani kama (aka imitation crab), spicy garlic aioli and crispy shallot. The Saiko miso was distinguished from normal miso by the addition of coconut and lemon grass. The seaweed salad was, well, seaweed salad.
The available specials were written on chalkboards adorning the maroon walls. Dimly lit pendant lights illuminated the chef’s prep area, creating an attractive and warm environment. With ample outdoor, indoor and bar seating, there was something for everyone. From my vantage across the street from San Diego Bay, I watched as the golden sunset bounced off of downtown skyscrapers, bathing the exterior of Saiko Sushi.
However I didn’t let the great view or ambiance distract me; I was there for one reason: to find out why this restaurant was worth going to weekly for a decade. The waiter, who was sporting an undercut with bright red highlights, was attentive and knowledgeable, answering my many questions about the menu.
The seaweed salad and Saiko miso were great, and in-line with what I was expecting. Exactly what one would hope to find, an inexpensive, reliable appetizer. The crown roll was brought to me with equal promptness. It did look swiftly assembled, but again we must remember that presentation doesn’t equate to much. Or, at least, I was hungry enough to have little opinion on the appearance.
It was wonderful, no over justification of a meal, high quality ingredients and reasonably priced. Every bite was perfectly firm and contained notes of all the aforementioned components. I can appreciate Pascale’s obsession with his craft, it is evident in every component of the dining experience. Did I leave a changed woman? Maybe not, but it was damn good enough for another decade of weekly visits. Which, I suppose, actually is sort of life-changing, if you think about it.
Saiko Sushi Restaurant, located on Orange Avenue, is open seven days a week. Check out the website for more information.
